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If you use a long focal length lens to photo-
graph a head and shoulders portrait, you
don’t want to find your back up against the
wall when you only have the head in the
frame. For example, if you use an 85mm
lens with a D200, you need at least 12 feet
between the camera and the subject, two or
three feet behind the camera for you, and
anywhere from three to six feet between
the model and the background to be sure
the model isn’t casting shadows on the
backdrop.
Be sure the area is wide enough to accom-
modate both the models and the lights
comfortably. You want to have enough
width to be able to move the lights further
away from the model if needed.
When setting up to photograph portraits,
you need to first decide how you want your
lighting to look. There are five main types of
portrait lighting.
These five types are
✦ Shadowless. This lighting is when
your main light and your fill light
are at equal ratios. Generally, you
set up a Speedlight at 45 degrees
on both sides of your model. This
type of light can be very flattering
although it can lack moodiness
and drama.
✦ Butterfly. Also called Hollywood
glamour, this type of lighting is
mostly used in glamour photogra-
phy. It gets its butterfly name from
the shape of the shadow that the
nose casts on the upper lip. You
achieve this type of lighting by
positioning the main light directly
above and in front of your model.
✦ Loop. Also called Paramount, this
is the most commonly used light-
ing technique for portraits. It was
used so extensively by Paramount
Studios in Hollywood’s golden age,
that this lighting pattern became
synonymous with the studio’s
name. This lighting pattern is
achieved by placing the main light
at a 15-degree angle to the face
making sure to keep the light high
enough so that the shadow cast by
the nose is at a downward angle
and not horizontal.
✦ Rembrandt. This dramatic lighting
pattern was used extensively by
the famous artist Rembrandt van
Rijn. The lighting is a moody dra-
matic pattern that benefits from
using less fill light. The Rembrandt
style is achieved by placing the
light at a 45-degree angle aimed a
little bit down at the subject. Again
I emphasize using little or no fill
light. This style is by far my favorite
type of lighting.
✦ Split. This is another dramatic pat-
tern that benefits from little or no
fill. You can do this by simply plac-
ing the main light at a 90-degree
angle to the model.
96 Part II ✦ Creating Great Photos with the Creative Lighting System
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