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For outboard turning, where the headstock is
moved to the opposite end of the Lathe to
accommodate large bowl blanks, you can (1)
mount the 18” bed extension to the three lower
holes on the Lathe frame, and (2) mount a vertical
extension post [included with the optional bed
extension] to the tool rest base. See Figure 9.
For large outboard work, an optional outboard
turning stand (# 6294732) is available – see sect.
16.4.1.
Figure 9
(shown with optional accessories)
7.4 Shelf assemblies (optional)
The double ledges on the inside of the Lathe legs
will provide support for a shelf (not provided),
which is convenient for storing larger items while
keeping them easily accessible.
Figures 10-11-12 illustrate three methods of
creating a shelf, using common lumber and basic
tools.
IMPORTANT TIP: It is unlikely that a full-size shelf
can be completely built and then inserted between
the Lathe legs. Therefore, construct the shelf in
pieces and insert screws only after the shelf has
been established beneath the Lathe.
Shelf Style 1 (Figure 10)
Lay two 2x6 boards flat upon the inner ledges.
Boards of 33” length are suitable, although 33-1/2”
is optimal.
Shelf Style 2 (Figure 11)
Lay two 2x4’s (or 2x6’s) on edge into the outer
ledges. Boards of 33” length are suitable, 33-1/2”
optimal.
Cut two pieces from a plywood board, and screw
them to the top edges of the 2x4’s. (One 33”
plywood piece will not fit through the legs of the
Lathe; use at least two pieces.) Make the plywood
pieces flush with the outside edge of the 2x4’s.
Figure 10
Figure 11
Shelf Style 3: (Figure 12)
This is a basket-style shelf consisting of two 2x6’s
and dowel rods. The advantage of this design is
that most wood chips will fall through the shelf
instead of accumulating on it. The instructions
below are for building the shelf shown in Figure 12.
Materials used:
2 – 2x6’s (33” suitable, 33-1/2” optimal).
8 – wood dowels, 4’ length, 5/8” diameter.
1. Mark your hole centers (2” centers) along the
length of a 2x6. Place the holes so that the
tops of the dowels will be even with the tops of
the ledges on the Lathe. Also, adjust your hole
centers as necessary so that the first and last
dowel will begin at approximately the same
distance from the ledge at both ends of the
Lathe.
2. Use a 5/8” spade bit chucked in a drill press or
in a portable drill. Bore the holes through one
2x6; this will be the rear piece.
3. On the other 2x6, do not bore through but only
deep enough to securely hold the ends of the
dowel rods. This will be the front piece and will
provide a pleasing appearance at the front of
your Lathe.