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English – 27
Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and
check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes,
etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree
starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135
degrees away from the intended felling direction.
Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the
directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the
bottom cut, then you ﬁnish with the felling cut. By placing
these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim
using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal
further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree
to fall (2). Stand on the right-hand side of the tree, behind
the saw, and cut with a pull stroke.
Next make the bottom cut so that it ﬁnishes exactly at the
end of the top cut.
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter
through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and
bottom cut should be 45
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional
cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at
right angles (90
°) to the chosen felling direction.
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree
and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side
of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about 1.5-2 inches (3-5 cm) above the
bottom directional cut.
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so
that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the
trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.
All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling
hinge is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional
cuts and felling cut are badly placed.
WARNING! Unless you have special
training we advise you not to fell trees
with a diameter larger than the bar length
of your saw!