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Troubleshooting Guide
Does the engine crank?
Good compression?
Does the tank contain fresh
fuel of the proper grade?
Is fuel visible and moving in
the return line when priming?
Is there spark at the spark
plug wire terminal?
Check the spark plug.
Faulty recoil starter.
Fluid in the crankcase.
Internal damage.
Loose spark plug.
Excess wear on cylinder, piston, rings.
Fuel incorrect, stale, or contaminated;
mixture incorrect.
Check for clogged fuel lter and/or vent.
Priming pump not functioning properly.
The ignition switch is in “O” (OFF) position.
Shorted ignition ground.
Faulty ignition unit.
If the plug is wet, excess fuel may
be in the cylinder.
The plug is fouled or improperly gapped.
The plug is damaged internally or
of the wrong size.
Consult with an authorized
servicing dealer.
Tighten and re-test.
Consult with an authorized
servicing dealer.
Rell with clean, fresh unleaded
gasoline with a pump octane of 87 or
higher, mixed with a 2-cycle air cooled
mixing oil that meets or exceeds ISO-L-
EGD and/or JASO FC classied oils at
50:1 gasoline/oil ratio.
Replace fuel lter or vent as required.
Re-start.
Consult with an authorized
servicing dealer.
Move switch to “I” (ON) position
and re-start.
Consult with an authorized
servicing dealer.
Crank the engine with the plug removed,
re-install the plug and re-start.
Clean and re-gap the plug to
0.6 mm (0.024 in.). Re-start.
Replace the plug with a NGK CMR5H or
equivalent resistor type spark plug of the
correct heat range. Set spark plug electrode
gap to 0.6mm (0.024 in.).
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What To Check Possible Cause Remedy
ENGINE DOES NOT START
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