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WORKING TECHNIQUES
English – 31
Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat
Delimb the stem up to shoulder height. It is safer to work
from the top down and to have the tree between you and
the saw.
Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and
check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes,
etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree
starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135
degrees away from the intended felling direction.
1 Danger zone
2 Retreat path
3 Felling direction
Felling
Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the
directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the
bottom cut, then you finish with the felling cut. By placing
these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction
very accurately.
Directional cuts
To make the directional cut you begin with the top cut. Aim
using to the saw’s felling direction mark (1) toward a goal
further forward in the terrain, where you would like the tree
to fall (2). Stand on the right-hand side of the tree, behind
the saw, and cut with a pull stroke.
Next make the bottom cut so that it finishes exactly at the
end of the top cut.
The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter
through the trunk and the angle between the top cut and
bottom cut should be 60
° - 70°.
The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional
cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at
right angles (90
°) to the chosen felling direction.
Felling cut
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the trunk
and it must be perfectly horizontal. Try to take a correct
position so you are able to cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about 0-3 cm (0-1.5 inches) above the
bottom directional cut.
Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the felling
hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar slowly
into the tree. Make sure the tree-top does not start to
!
WARNING! Unless you have special
training we advise you not to fell trees
with a diameter larger than the bar length
of your saw!
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