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WORKING TECHNIQUES
26 – English
Felling cut
The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree
and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side
of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.
Make the felling cut about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the
bottom directional cut.
Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) just behind the
felling hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar
slowly into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to
move in the opposite direction to your intended felling
direction. Drive a wedge or breaking bar into the cut as
soon as it is deep enough.
Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so
that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the
trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the
felling hinge.
The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.
All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling
hinge is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional
cuts and felling cut are badly placed.
When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the
tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling
wedge or breaking bar.
We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the
diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut
and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See
instructions under the heading Technical data section to
find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your
saw.
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger
than the bar length. However these methods involve a
much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will
come into contact with the tree.
Freeing a tree that has fallen badly
Freeing a ”trapped tree”
It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and there is
high accident risk.
Never try to fell the tree that is trapped.
Never work in the risk zone of the hanging trapped tree.
The safest method is to use a winch.
• Tractor-mounted