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WORKING TECHNIQUES
When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the tree
should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling wedge or
breaking bar.
We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the
diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut and
directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See the Technical
data section to find out which lengths of bar are
recommended for your saw.
There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger than
the bar length. However these methods involve a much
greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into
contact with the tree.
Limbing
Make sure that you can stand and move about safely. Work on
the left side of the trunk. Work as close as possible to the
chain saw for maximum control. If possible, let the weight of
the chain saw rest on the trunk.
Keep the trunk between you and the chain saw as you move
along the trunk.
Freeing a tree that has fallen badly
Cutting trees and branches that are in tension
Preparations:
Work out which side is in tension and where the point of
maximum tension is (i.e. where it would break if it was bent
even more).
Decide which is the safest way to release the tension and
whether you are able to do it safely. In complicated situations
the only safe method is to put aside your chain saw and use
a winch.
General advice:
Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or branch
when the tension is released.
Make one or more cuts at or near the point of maximum
tension. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary
to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at
the point of maximum tension.
Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is in
tension!
!
WARNING! Unless you have special training
we advise you not to fell trees with a
diameter larger than the bar length of your
saw!
!
WARNING! Most kickback accidents happen
during limbing! Pay close attention to the
position of the kickback zone of the bar
when you are limbing branches that are in
tension!