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YAHOO GR.OvP
ADJUSTMENTS
1. Cutting Height: The cutting height is con-
trolled by the lever on the right side of the
mower, fig 1, Items 1 and 4. It is most
easily adjusted when the mower is in the
raised (transport) position: adjusting the lever
forward for a low cut, rearward for a high
cut. The total range is 2 1/4 inches.
2. Leveling: If the mower appears to cut closer
to the ground on one side than the other,
adjust the mower support where it connects
to the roller assembly, fig 1, Items 6, 50,55,
57 and 58. To adjust, move the forked end of
the support away from the roller shaft to
make the right side cut higher. Move the
forked end of the support closer to the roller
shaft to make the right side cut lower.
3.
Belt Alignment: If the belt appears to be
wearing more on one side than the other, it is
possible that the mower pulley is not aligned
with the PTO pulley. To adjust, loosen the set
screw in the hub of the mower pulley, fig 1,
Items 37, 38, 39 and 40. Move the pulley in
the direction of the worn side of the belt
until the pulleys align. Raise the hood and
view from above. Retighten the set screw.
Blade Timing: Correct timing is as follows:
one biade is in the cradle front to rear while
at the same time the other blade is in the
cradle side to side (900 out of phase), fig 1,
Items 31 and 32. To adjust, remove either one
of the collar retaining rings, fig 1, Items 41
and 42. Slide the collar towards the middle of
the shaft. Rotate the blades for correct
timing. Slide the collar back on the gear box
shaft and lock it in position with the retaining
ring.
4.
5.
Lift Rod: If the mower does not come up
high enough when the lift lever is in the top
notch, move the jam nuts closer to the bend
in the lift rod. This adjustment should bring
the mower up closer to the tractor and still
allow the mower to "float" when all the way
down.
6. Blade Removal:
A. Remove the mower from the tractor and
turn the mower upside down.
B. Remove the nuts, washers and blades,
fig 1, Items 30, 31 and 54. It is not
ntcessary to remove the blade cradles,
fig 1, Item 35. A block of wood or
something similar can be used to keep
the blades from turning. Place the wedge
between the blades and the side of the
mower deck.
C. If the cradles are removed, be sure to
reinstall them with the woodruff keys,
fig 1, Item 35.
7. Blade Installation:
A. Set the blades in the cradles as in fig 1,
Items 31 and 32. The lift portion of the
blades points towards the mower deck.
B. Put on the washers and torque the nuts
to 25 ft. lbs., fig 1, Items 30 and 54.
Similar tightness can be reached with
any 8" length handle wrench when used
by an average man. A block of wood or
something similar can be used to keep
the blades from turning. Place the wedge
between the blade and the side of the
mower deck.
C. Check to be sure that the blades are
properly timed.
8. Belt Replacement:
A. Remove the mower from the tractor.
B. Remove the retaining rings from the
drive shaft, fig 1, Item 41.
C. Slide the collars toward the pulley, fig 1,
Item 42.
D. Remove the shaft and the old belt from
the shaft.
E. Set the new belt on the pulley and
reinstall the shaft. Note: Be sure that the
blades are properly timed when reas-
sembling the drive.
REMOVAL FROM TRACTOR
1. Lower the mower and disconnect the spring.
2. Raise the mower and open the attachment
latches.
3. Lower the mower and disconnect the lift rod
from the mower hanger and the tractor lift
lever.
4. Move the mower as forward as possible.
5. Put the PTO in the IN position and remove
the belt from the PTO pulley.
"
6. Slide the mower from under the tractor.
7. Reconnect the lift rod to the mower for
storage.