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Part No. 350324 Form No. F031605A
RAKING/SLICING TIPS
Before begining, it is best to evaluate the condition of
the lawn by cutting one or more core samples from
area to be treated. A core can be cut using a piece of
pvc, or metal pipe. Hammer the pipe into the ground,
remove it, push the core out of the pipe and inspect it
to determine the depth of thatch in your yard.
THATCH: Thatch is a dense layer of dead grass,
clippings, and roots that builds up over time at the
base of of the lawn preventing air, water, and fertilizer
from reaching the soil. This can cause shallow root
development and make a lawn more susceptible to
drought and disease. Thatch also provides an ideal
environment for insects to hide and multiply. Periodic
removal of thatch will keep your lawn in good health.
HEAVY THATCH: Lawns with an excessive amount of
thatch will require multiple treatments for effective
removal. Trying to remove excessive thatch (greater
than 3/4"[19 mm] deep) in one treatment will damage
or destroy the living part of the lawn. It is best to
remove heavy thatch in seasonal treatments (i.e.
spring, and fall).
SLOPES: Rake slopes across not up and down. This
is much easier and safer for the operator and is better
for the lawn. Raking across will help to reduce runoff
during watering and allow the sloped ground to hold
more seed, fertilizer, and water. The units maximum
operating slope is 35% or 19°.
DEPTH: The wide range of depth adjusment on your
unit is provided to allow for blade wear. Setting the
reel deeper will not produce better, or quicker results.
The flail reel is intended to be set so it just touches the
surface on flat ground. The slicing reel should be set
even with the ground for verti-slicing work, and set to a
maximum 1/2" depth for overseeding jobs. Setting the
reel deeper than this will only result in premature wear
on the unit (i.e. failed belt). If you desire to work the
ground deeper than the above guidlines allow, it
should be done gradually in multiple passes..
SLICING / OVERSEEDING: Mow the lawn to shorter
than the normal cut height before starting (i.e. approxi-
mately 2" tall for fescue grass). For the best result,
Slice/Overseed in criss cross pattern (See Fig. 1 and
See Fig 2).
Hints!
RAKING OPERATION
MOW: Mow the lawn to it's normal cut height.
DRY: Be sure grass is dry. Wet conditions can cause
increased damage to healthy grass.
SET DEPTH: With engine off, set the raking depth so that
the blades just touch on a flat surface (i.e. driveway, or
sidewalk).
START ENGINE: See page 5 for further instruction.
ENGAGE BLADES: Pull back on the bail on the opera-
tors handle. NOTE: When engaging the blades in heavy
load conditions (i.e. heavy thatch, or very uneven turf),
push down on the operators handle lifting the front
wheels slightly. Engage the blades. Slowly lower the unit
into the turf.
RAKE: Rake a small test area and examine the results.
Thatch should be removed and deposited on top of the
healthy grass. If excessive damage occurs to healty
grass, adjust the blade depth to decrease damage.
Continue raking the yard, working in one direction (i.e.
north-south, or east-west). NOTE: If a large drop in
engine RPM occurs, or the unit pulls you forward and
bounces during operation the blade depth is set too low.
REMOVE THATCH: After raking, a layer of thatch will be
deposited over the top of the lawn. This thatch must be
removed prior to any fertilizing, seeding, or watering of
the lawn. We suggest the use of a lawn vacuum or
wheeled blower for collection and removal of the thatch.
DO NOT- Use this machine on any surface other than a
lawn.
DO NOT- Use this machine on slopes in excess of19°.
DO NOT- Allow persons unfamiliar with this equipment to
operate it.
DO NOT- Allow children to operate this equipment.
Fig. 1
Page 7 of 16
Fig. 2
NOTE: Must have the flail reel assembly (350112) for
this operation.
OPERATION continued
16