The engine starts but the drive belt is not engaging at all - nothing

Asked by Tiffinagh on 04/08/2014 5  Answers

ManualsOnline posted an answer 10 years, 7 months ago

The ManualsOnline team has found the manual for this product! We hope it helps solve your problem. Get the Manual Here
0 Hi, By 'drive belt' I assume you mean the one to make the mower move? It could be a 'snapped' or 'thrown' belt, or the brake/clutch is not disengaging/engaging. Are you sure it's the belt, if the belt is OK the gearbox bypass may be disengaged or the gearbox has a problem! It should have a hydrostatic gearbox/axle with hand motion control, yes? Working on the premise that it is the belt at fault. With the engine off and the brake off, drop the cutter deck to it's lowest setting and look up under the engine from the right hand side. If the cutter deck is manual lift, lock the lever down if at all possible, they have a tendency to slip if knocked (a safety feature) and can catch arms/hands/fingers if not careful. The 'drive' belt is the middle one of three on the engine pulley, put your hand on it and it should be tight, If it's not then it has 'snapped', been 'thrown' or the brake/clutch pedal has not released and is not tensioning the belt. You may well be able to see a belt hanging down as soon as you look underneath. The belt runs from the engine pulley on the left side straight to the gearbox pulley then back toward the engine, it goes on the right side around of the first of two idler wheels, then between them, then round to the left side of the second wheel and back onto the engine pulley. That pair of idler wheels tensions the belt, they should move when the brake is applied or released, if they aren't then the pivot is seized, the assembly will need to be removed and the pivot freed off. If the idler wheels freely move with the pedal the bearings in the wheel may be shot, in which case the idler wheels will be loose and flap about when the brake is off thus not tensioning the belt correctly. If the belt is tensioned correctly (tight) when the brake is off, and in place as described continue as below WITH GREAT CARE!!!. Start the engine as normal, make sure the cutter deck is off, if the seat switch is still operational bypass it or have someone sit in the seat while you look up underneath again, this time above the gearbox/axle. DO NOT PUT HANDS IN ANYWHERE WHILE THE ENGINE IS RUNNING!!!!!! Is the belt from the engine turning the pulley on the gearbox/axle? If it is, on low engine speed, gently push the gear lever forward, does the gearbox/axle pulley still go round with the belt, if it doesn't then there is not enough tension on the belt. the belt may be stretched, oily or there may be a gearbox/axle problem. further investigation will be required. If it is just the belt that needs replacing I think it is an A78 size belt for a Tuftorque K55 Axle or an A80 for a Hydrogear axle, but check what you have first, any bearing supplier should be able to match the belt if the printing on the belt has worn off. They will charge a lot less than your local service outlet. The job to remove the belt and idlers is the same, not difficult but awkward. Check the idlers, if they are gritty when spun, replace them. Belts and idlers easily available on fleabay. Best of luck with it. I'll try and help more if I can but I'm away from Sunday so can't do anything after then. Doug
Was this answer helpful?
0 The belt on the far left hand side is the loosest one and then the next one is also not as tight as the next two? So, the two on the right hand side are very tight, the third not so tight and the fourth is loose. Thanks so much for your help I really appreciate it! Ros
Was this answer helpful?
0 OK I started the engine which turned two of the belts. The outside left belt moved slightly when I tried to put it into drive (the one that appeared loose). There was also a slight growling noise on the right hand-side when trying to put into drive as if it was trying to engage but couldn't for some reason. Does this help?
Was this answer helpful?
0 The belt Countax 22.8111 appears worn and split but still intact and in place - could this be the problem - it is the loose one?
Was this answer helpful?
0 Ok, no disrespect meant but i may have given you too much info to start with, but it sounds like you are heading in the right direction. Looking at the pulley set directly below the engine the drive belt for the transmission is the middle one, it runs straight to the small pulley on top of the gearbox/axleis that the one that is loose when the brake is on, moves a bit when you move the gear lever forward or back and is split?
Was this answer helpful?

Add Your Answer

Please Note: Do not submit personal information as it will be displayed online.